1、Andrey ZvyagintsevWomens SS 23Fashion WeeksReportCourtesy of PradaCourtesy of PradaMens Spring Summer 24Fashion WeeksReportAfter the dazzling display of the FW23 collections,which heralded a return to elegance,the anticipation surrounding this season was palpable,as it held the potential to confirm

2、or refute the emergence of a genuine new era in fashion.The designers responses,while committed,were not unanimous in their direction,presenting a diverse landscape of ideas and inspirations.The influence of Quiet Luxury,with its profound fashion,marketing,and sociological implications,was evident t

3、hroughout the collections,making its mark on the industry.Milan,in particular,showcased the evolving definitions of masculinity and tailoring.Brunello Cucinelli,Tods,and Zegna presented relaxed suiting,exemplifying the versatility and fluidity of menswear.This redefinition of tailoring drew inspirat

4、ion from utilitarian and technical elements,as seen at Prada,Herms,and Givenchy,signaling the maturation of the gorpcore aesthetic into a more casual version suitable for everyday city life.Continuing the theme of New Eleganza introduced in AW23,a gentle and couture-like tailoring emerged at Valenti

5、no and Emporio Armani,accompanied by a rich offering of silk,brocade,and organza.This reaffirmed the desire to dress masculinity in its finest attire and embrace fluidity.The male wardrobe fearlessly borrowed codes from its female counterpart,with a shift from grand occasions to a more daily,light,a

6、nd simplified application.But this borrowing was not simply aesthetic.Indeed,according to our visual recognition technology,in the 120 shows analyzed,nearly 30%of the models were women.This figure even approaches 50%for brands such as Dsquared2,Martine Rose,Charles Jeffrey Loverboy,or Marine Serre.C

7、ontrasting with this refined elegance,a vibrant exuberance took center stage,characterized by transformative energy reminiscent of youth.Designers such as Marine Serre,44 Label Group,and Bluemarble drew inspiration from the various music scene of the 90s,evoking a spirit of self-determination and co

8、llective experiences.Others embraced the new creative possibilities arising from the exchange between man and machine,exploring AI-driven production methods and futuristic setups.This vibrant fluidity showcased dissonant prints and shimmering colors,creating a dynamic visual landscape.In this new er

9、a of menswear,where multiple and diverse answers emerged,the common thread was a desire to explore and push boundaries.Each proposal found its place,creating a leveling effect that celebrated individuality and innovation.It is through this collective spirit of uncompromising exploration that the men

10、swear landscape of the season was shaped,embodying the essence of a dynamic and transformative era.PradaFlowing Beyond Boundaries:Menswears Transformative JourneyEdito INDEX123 45 City SpotlightThe top runway trends,divided by city,analyzed by our AIThematic Trend AnalysisStar TrendsSee how the most

11、 common trends were adapted in different waysPetar PetrovStandout colors,prints,fabrics,silhouettes,and accessories of the season and the evolution of previous themesThe SS 23 to Streetstyle pipelineSee how trends from last season are being worn on the streetTrends Screening Reality or projection?Ac

12、curate behavioral analyses of the most visible trendsCitySpotlight1Courtesy of PradaHow are the main trends from fashion weeks distributed in the different fashion capitals?What stands out as the macro trends in Milan and Paris?Lets look at the bigger picture of what emerged from these collections.4

13、7%Top trendsParis4%6%1.BERLUTI2.BOTTER3.TUDES1.LEMAIRE2.DIOR MEN3.HERMS1.3.PARADIS2.EGON LAB3.LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.In Paris,the runway shows exuded a sense of simple comfort,steering clear of caricatured minimalism.Pearl emerged as the dominant shade,commanding a significant shar

14、e of 47%visibility.Ankle Pants took center stage for pants,as brands like Herms,Lemaire,and Dior Men showcased their wide-fit silhouettes,offering a less formal alternative to classic cigarette pants,perfect for the summer season.Tank tops made a strong appearance,showcasing a variety of fabrics suc

15、h as linen,jersey,and a dove-printed mesh seen at 3.Paradis.Overall,tank tops comprised a notable 6%of the tops recognized on the runways.PearlAnkle PantsTank TopsSS 23 TrendsStreetstyle Adoption 2Courtesy of Prada-4%In Spring 23 vs Spring 22Magnitude MEDIUMSegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAM+5%In S

16、pring 24 vs Spring 23 Last year,the shade of pumpkin made a bold impact in our Bohemian Prep theme,drawing inspiration from the vibrant energy of California.This warm hue embodied adventure and free-spiritedness,translated into collections.Fashion-show attendees embraced this daring shade,seen in cr

17、ochet knits,skin-baring looks,and retro-inspired vintage tees.Pumpkin became a cheeky and expressive choice,captivating fashion enthusiasts.Data analysis predicts a resurgence of pumpkin in the upcoming Spring season,with a projected 5%increase in visibility and widespread adoption across consumer s

18、egments.1.JIMIN JEON2.CRIS FRAGKOU3.JIMIN JEON2.3.1.Magnitude MEDIUMSegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMPumpkinStreet Style Penetration Rate 5%SS 23SS 24ThematicTrends Analysis3Courtesy of PradaEnhanced SensibilityRenewed masculinity4.2.3.5.1.1.DOLCE&GABBANA2.SAINT LAURENT 3.HOMME PLISS ISSEY MIYAKE4

19、.LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN5.GIVENCHYKey ColorsBlush PinkWhiteCream0%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUM Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:1.5%0%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVE Segmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGYRunway Share:49%+3%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSeg

20、mentation TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:7%Enhanced SensibilityEnhanced SensibilityKey Colors1.DOLCE&GABBANA2.HERMES3.FENG CHEN WANG4.SEAN SUEN5.OFFICINE GNRALETo enhance the feelings of sensitivity and vulnerability,the chosen colors for this theme revolve around lightness.Three key hues that beauti

21、fully stood out were white,creme,and brushed pink.Similarly to previous fashion weeks,the SS24 season saw brands focusing on the allure of monochromatic looks.Dolce&Gabbana was a prominent brand that embraced this direction,presenting a remarkable amount of total white looks.Delightful cream hues gr

22、aced the runways of Dior,Gucci,Lemaire,Sean Suen while the captivating presence of brushed pink flourished in the shows of Valentino,Amiri,Dries Van Noten,and many others.2.4.3.5.1.Key FabricsKnitSatin+1%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude BIG Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:1.5%+5%In

23、 Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude SMALLSegmentation TRENDY&EDGYRunway Share:1%Enhanced SensibilitySee Through0%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUM Segmentation TRENDY&EDGYRunway Share:0.6%Enhanced SensibilityKey Fabrics1.DOLCE&GABBANA2.FENDI3.AMIRI4.TAAKK5.HERMESThe presence of see through fabr

24、ics on the runway continues to grow strongly season after season.With a great focus on heightened sensibility,it was unsurprising to witness the prevalent use of sheer fabrics in the SS24 shows.They were used not only for tops,but also pants,shorts and even blazers as seen at Herms.Knit follows the

25、growth of see through fabrics in SS24.During this season,knitted pieces were characterized by oversized and asymmetric shapes,elegantly adorned with deep V-necks to highlighting sensibility and tenderness.Fluidity was also strongly amplified through the use of satin,as seen in total satin looks pres

26、ented at Emporio Armani.2.4.3.5.1.Key PatternsPlain+1%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVE Segmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGYRunway Share:63%Enhanced SensibilityFloral-3%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUM Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:1.5%Enhanced SensibilityKey Patte

27、rnsIn line with the theme,this season embraced vulnerability and serenity throughout the presentation of plain looks as seen at Ami,Zegna and Dolce&Gabbana.In addition,a multitude of brands took the stage,showcasing a great array of floral prints as seen at Prada,Valentino,Neil Barrett,Sacai and mor

28、e.From charming ditsy prints to captivating abstract florals and intricate three-dimensional flower prints,the collections were an enchanting celebration of contemporary romanticism,taking inspiration from the botanical world.2.4.3.5.1.1.WALES BONNER2.AMI3.NEIL BARRETT4.ERL5.BRIONIFluid PantsMidi Dr

29、essesTransparent TopsKeyShapesWide Leg Tailored PantsA considerable number of esteemed brands eagerly introduced a diverse array of fluid tailored pants.The prevailing trend predominantly favored high-waisted styles,while a more limited selection explored the appeal of low-waisted options.When paire

30、d with fluid or transparent tops,the overall look emphasized a sophisticated embrace of sensibility,exuding elegance in every aspect.Elegant fluidity2.3.4.3.4.5.Consistent RiserMen+3%In Spring 24 vs.last yearINCREASINGMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGY,TRENDY1.EMPORIO ARMANI2.KOCHE3.AMI4.DRIES VAN NOTEN

31、5.LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHIBallerinasKeyAccessoriesThongs SandalsLong NecklacesNot only was freedom granted to the body by the fluidity of shapes,but also by the use of specific shape accessories.As the popularity of ballet shoes for women has been on a rapid rise,this season witnessed a notable increase

32、 in the prominence of ballet flats for men.Loewe was certainly the key brand presenting a variety of ballet flats-from glittery ones to rubber ones.The finishing flourish1.OFFICE GENERALE2.LOEWE3.ACNE STUDIO4.ALYX5.SIMON CRACKER3.4.2.3.4.5.Ballerina ShoesColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesE

33、nhanced Sensibility-Starter PackUpscale CollegiateOpulent Preppiness4.2.3.5.1.1.DIOR MEN2.GIVENCHY3.AMIRI4.SOLID HOMME5.PRADAColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesUpscale Collegiate-Starter PackRavecoreEnergetic Fashion Statements4.2.3.5.1.1.ACNE STUDIO2.CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY3.BLUMARBLE4.DS

34、QUARED5.ETUDES3.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesRavecore-Starter PackPlanet BEscape to Wider Spaces4.2.3.5.1.1.44 LABEL GROUP2.ERL3.HED MAYNER4.CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY5.GIVENCHYColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesRetro-Futurist-Starter PackStarTrends 4Courtesy of PradaSometimes

35、trends transcend themes and aesthetics.In this section,we review trends so visible that they are expressed through the different themes that we have identified.It is important to understand the subtle differences to best adapt a theme to your brand DNA and own audience.Bomber Jackets1.EGON LAB2.DOLC

36、E&GABBANA 3.DSQUARED21.2.3.This iconic piece,originally derived from the US Military and later adopted by diverse subcultures including hooligans,activists,punks,and ravers,is experiencing a resurgence on this seasons runways.Designers are embracing the versatility of the bomber jacket,offering a ra

37、nge of interpretations.From military-inspired designs to casual preppy styles and even highly embellished versions,the bomber jacket reflects the diverse ways in which masculinity can be expressed this season.-3%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation:EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share

38、 0.5%Upscale CollegiateBomber Jackets4.2.3.5.1.1.VETEMENTS2.SOLID HOMME3.OFFICINE GNRALE4.BLUEMARBLE5.LOUIS VUITTONEnhanced SensitivityRavecorePlanet B5Courtesy of PradaTrendScreening Fashion weeks and their shows are great moments of innovation and inspiration.However,the enthusiasm of creators for

39、 specific trends are not immediately met with the support of the general public.We thus offer you a new type of analysis to understand the real behavior of trends that are widely present on the catwalks.Stripes1.AMIRI2.BLUEMARBLE 3.LOEWE1.2.3.Stripes dominated the fashion scene,maintaining their cla

40、ssic appeal primarily on shirts.However,designers infused them with small details such as glittering embroideries or experimented with pattern clashing,deviating from the traditional and predictable approach.Interestingly,while shirts may be the safest choice,our data suggests that they may not hold

41、 the highest promise for future adoption of stripes.Breakdown by cluster of the 22 trends associated with Stripes by Heuritechs modules:Consistent Riser:5%Come Back:14%Watch Out:9%Consistent Decliner:45%Fluctuating:27%Trend behaviour Come BackHorizontal Thick Striped Tops2.KIKO KOSTADINOVWatch OutVe

42、rtical Striped Tops3.EMPORIO ARMANI+0%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMarket Share 0.2%Annual Growth+3%+2%In Spring 24v s.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual Growth-1%Consistent RiserStriped Jackets1.MSGM+1%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual Growth+1%Trend behaviour FluctuatingStriped Shorts2.BED J.

43、W.FORD+1%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMarket Share 2%Annual Growth-1%Consistent DeclinerStriped Pants1.AMI-2%In Spring 24 vs.last yearMarket Share 2%Annual Growth-3%1.The City Spotlight outlines some of the most represented runway trends in Milan,and Paris,detected by our AI.2.The key thread running thr

44、ough the SS24 shows lied in the use of fluidity to unleash menswears new era.We have drawn from this idea 4 major themes-Upscale Collegiate-Enhanced Sensibility-Ravecore-Planet B3.Shows are more and more freeing themselves from gender restraints with a 30%representation of female models during this

45、menswear fashion week.4.Bomber Jackets,Suits,Polo Shirts,Bermuda Shorts,Loafers,Chubby Sneakers were the star trends of the season,meaning they were present in nearly every runway show,spotted in all of our key themes.These trends are must-have menswear styles for an upcoming SS24 collection assortment.KeyTakeawaysSeaPradaActually,we didnt tell you everythingSubscribe to our newsletterPradaFor the full report,please get in touch at:You can also subscribe to our newsletter to be notified of our next reports and webinars