1、Andrey ZvyagintsevWomens SS 23Fashion WeeksReportCourtesy of PradaCourtesy of PradaMens Fall Winter 23Fashion WeeksReportThe FW 23 season marked a turning point in the dynamics of recent seasons.Several houses changed artistic directions,some asserted themselves as predominant players in the sector,

2、and others are making a noticeable comeback.But,above all,tailoring and elegance marked their big return.Even if casual elements of sportswear still support certain silhouettes,sneakers lost market share to dress shoes and the 2023 man is adorned with eye-catching fabrics,embroidery and new shapes t

3、hat assert a serene masculinity.After studying the shows in Milan and Paris in their entirety,an ambivalent impression emerges.We are placed between the simplicity and purity of the reinvented formal wear,and the intricacy of details that are as rich as they are original.This season reshuffles the m

4、ens wardrobe in the sense that it does not play with clichs,but rather reinforces fashions empowerment of both genders.The 2023 man has no qualms about embracing his femininity or his childish side,while being increasingly aware of a world with troubled contours.This season gives us all facets of a

5、contemporary man,opening up an alluring field of possibilities.The colors,materials,shapes and embellishments deepen and twist,where possible,familiar themes.However,there is still a delicate wind of novelty that blows through these great classics.This season is not one of ostentation.On the contrar

6、y,a diffused impression of uniqueness and continuity irrigates all collections.Each designer personify the autumn and winter seasons through their inherent natural and biological slowdown.There is also a clear evolution in sources of inspiration,as creativite universes were recently fed by external

7、factors and hectic elsewheres,and even a digital otherness.This seasons approach,however,comes from a more contemplative and immobile posture,an approach to introspection which results in the expansion of codes and identities.A more intimate response to the renewed questioning How do we feel inspire

8、d to empower masculinity?As a result,perhaps counter-intuitive given the number of possibilities offered by this question,a certain methodology emanates from the FW 23 season.It shows us how an underlying but obvious topic that each designer can be translated into personal and impactful merchandisin

9、g stories.PradaAn Essay on MasculinityEdito INDEX123 45 City SpotlightThe top runway trends,divided by city,analyzed by our AIThematic Trend AnalysisStar TrendsSee how the most common trends were adapted in different waysPetar PetrovStandout colors,prints,fabrics,silhouettes,and accessories of the s

10、eason and the evolution of previous themesThe FW 22 to Streetstyle pipelineSee how trends from last season are being worn on the streetTrends Screening Reality or projection?Accurate behavioral analyses of the most visible trendsCitySpotlight1Courtesy of PradaHow are the main trends from fashion wee

11、ks distributed in the different fashion capitals?What stands out as the macro trends in Milan and Paris?Lets look at the bigger picture of what came out of these collections.7%Top trendsMilan15%8%1.PRADA2.ZEGNA3.EMPORIO ARMANI1.FENDI2.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI3.MAGLIANO1.GUCCI2.MSGM3.DOLCE&GABBANA1.2.3.1.2

12、.3.1.2.3.The Milanese catwalks presented us with a renewed and nonchalant take on tailoring.Fashion houses such as Giorgio Armani,Dolce&Gabbana and Fendi stuck to a minimalist color palette for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2023 season.Grey,representing 7%of all the recognized colors,was present in all i

13、ts shades from cloud to charcoal.Within the pants category,formal shapes accounted for 8%,embodying this quest for sophistication.To ease into the silhouettes and offer more versatile and comfortable formal wear,formal pants were often styled with knitted tops as a cozy element.Adding the traditiona

14、l wintery use of knitwear,knits amounted to 15%of recognized fabrics.GreyKnitFormal PantsFW 22 TrendsStreetstyle Adoption 2Courtesy of Prada1.3.5.2.4.1.Edward Berthelot2.Style du Monde3.Edward Berthelot4.Acielle Style du Monde5.Style du MondeCorduroyStreet Style Penetration Rate 2%FW 22FW 23-17%In F

15、all 22 vs Fall 21Magnitude SMALLSegmentation TRENDY+5%In Fall 23 vs Fall 22Magnitude SMALLSegmentation TRENDYThematicTrends Analysis3Courtesy of Prada70s EccentricKitschyBoudoirApparent lingerieSkin-baringVillainyStructuredFlamboyant30s AdventurerOld-fashionedSubversiveRomanticTrippyMilitaryUtilityS

16、hielded60sIvy LeagueDark AcademiaChildishDelicateOniricGrungyRave cultureDisheveledClassic TailoringSmartorialOptimizationMinimalismFluid tailoringAestheteWorkwearCanadian TuxedoPracticalityNew EleganzaEmpowering masculine elegance through splendor and womenswear codesZeitgeist TravelerEmpowering ma

17、sculinity through playful exploration and contemplationBlue MondayEmpowering inhibited masculinity through dreams and existentialism.Paradoxical CapsuleEmpowering the active man through mindful minimalismThe DandyLooks in past eras to find a sense of elegance to twist with modern codesThe Soft BoyPl

18、ays gracefully with gender norms and avoids labels activelyThe DefierLeans towards streetwear to find silhouettes combining comfort and edginessThemeMatrixThis Theme Matrice is made to quickly highlight intelligible and interpretable merchandising stories.We used a two way table to better understand

19、 how brands with different DNAs interpreted similar universes.The rows are the answers that we felt designers offered this season to the question“In what ways are you inspired to empower modern masculinity?”whereas the columns are centered on the most addressed personas of those FW23 fashion weeks.N

20、ew EleganzaTaking on new codes4.2.3.5.1.1.SAINT LAURENT2.DOLCE&GABBANA 3.GIVENCHY4.DIOR HOMME5.FENDINew EleganzaKey ColorsBlackGreyWhite-2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVE Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:43%+2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVE Segmentation MAINSTREAM,T

21、RENDY&EDGYRunway Share:16%-1%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:9%New EleganzaKey FabricsSee-ThroughSatin+1%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUM Segmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:2.5%+7%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude SMALLSegmen

22、tation TRENDYSequinsNew EleganzaKey PatternsDvorEmbroideriesPlain-2%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMRunway Share:80%See-Through TopsCapesTailored PantsKeyShapesTailored PantsElegance starts with simple things,what better than tailor pants to create an elega

23、nt silhouette?Although our data indicates a fluctuating trend,it is important to note that all consumer segments are affected by tailored pants.Associated with a massive magnitude,this information relativizes the announced decreasing growth.A true flagship item,it comes in all kinds of versions,from

24、 the most classic to the most edgy.At the root of it all1.CASABLANCA2.ERNEST W.BAKER3.WALES BONNER4.PRADA5.ETRO2.3.4.FluctuatingMen-2%3.4.5.In Fall 23 vs.last yearSTABLEMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMPatent Leather ShoesClutchKeyAccessoriesSilk ScarfFluctuatingMen-1%In Fall 23 v

25、s.last yearSTABLEMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGY,TRENDY&MAINSTREAMThe height of chic,patent leather shoes have always been part of the elegant wardrobe for parties and special occasions.This season marks a big comeback for this must-have,the best ally of a beautiful tuxedo.We will also note a signifi

26、cant advance in the representation of dress shoes with regard to the decline in sneakers.Where a few seasons ago we would have found sneakers,much more formal shoes are taking over.Epitomized chic1.GIORGIO ARMANI2.CASABLANCA3.ARTURO OBEGERO4.TODS5.LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI3.4.2.3.4.5.Patent Leather S

27、hoes4.The DandyCASABLANCAERNEST W.BAKER DOLCE&GABBANAFENDISAINT LAURENTRICK OWENSThe Soft BoyThe DefierNew Eleganza Interpretations:from Dandy to DefierColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesNew Eleganza-Starter PackZeitgeist Traveler Explore the present4.2.3.5.1.1.DIOR HOMME2.SAINT LAURENT3.GI

28、VENCHY4.MAGLIANO5.DOLCE&GABBANAColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesZeitgeist Traveler-Starter PackBlue MondayA Restorative Fantasy4.2.3.5.1.1.ACNE STUDIOS2.LOEWE3.GUCCI4.DOUBLET5.ETROColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesBlue Monday-Starter PackParadoxical CapsuleSimplifying Processes4

29、.2.3.5.1.1.UNIFORME2.ZEGNA3.BIANCA SAUNDERS4.THE ROW5.GUCCIColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsShapesParadoxical Capsule-Starter PackStarTrends 4Courtesy of PradaSometimes trends transcend themes and aesthetics.In this section,we review trends so visible that they are expressed through the differe

30、nt atmospheres that we have identified.It is important to understand the subtle differences to best adapt a theme to its brand DNA and its consumer.Floor-Length Coat1.GUCCI2.LOEWE3.DOLCE&GABBANA 1.2.3.+1%In Fall 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation:EDGYRunway Share 31%Floor-Length Coat 4.2.3.

31、5.1.1.AMI2.LGN3.FENDI4.SAINT LAURENT 5.FENDIBlue MondayZeitgeist TravellerNew EleganzaParadoxical Capsule5Courtesy of PradaTrendScreening Fashion weeks and their shows are great moments of innovation and inspiration.However,the enthusiasm of creators for specific trends are not immediately met with

32、the support of the general public.We thus offer you a new type of analysis to understand the real behavior of trends that are widely present on the catwalks.Pastel1.GIVENCHY2.GUCCI3.LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI1.2.3.Breakdown by cluster of the 7 specific trends associated with Pastel by Heuritechs modulesRi

33、sing Star:6%Consistent Riser:24%Stable:6%Watch Out:24%Fluctuating:41%Trend behaviorFluctuatingPastel Tops2.FendiRising Star Pastel Outerwear3.Ami-1%In Fall Winter 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual growth-3%-1%In Fall Winter 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 1%Annual growth-1%Consistent RiserPastel Snea

34、kers1.Issey Miyake+2%In Fall Winter 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 4%Annual growth 10%Trend behaviorWatch OutPastel Green Tops1.Loewe-1%In Fall Winter 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 0%Annual growth-1%StablePastel Blue Tops2.Gucci 2%In Fall Winter 23 vs.last yearMarket Share 0%Annual growth-2%1.Our City Sp

35、otlight outlines some of the most represented runway trends in Milan,and Paris,detected by our AI.2.The running thread of the FW23 shows lies in the challenges of representing a modern empowerment of masculinity.As a result,this questioning brought about 4 themes:-New Eleganza-Zeitgeist Traveler-Blu

36、e Monday-Paradoxical Capsule3.In addition,we identified 3 main personas continually evoked by brands at the moment;the nostalgic Dandy,the untamed Soft Boy and the grungy Defier.These three clearly show designers focus on the youth and their efforts to understand and cater to these aesthetics.4.Knee

37、 High Boots,Skirts,Grey,Maxi Length Coats and Layering were defined as Star Trends for next season,meaning they were present in nearly every runway show and spotted in our key themes.These trends will be must-have menswear styles for FW 23 assortments.KeyTakeawaysSeaPradaGeorges WendellThis is just a small taste of what Heuritech members have access to.To learn more,click below to request a free guided tour of what Heuritech has to offer from one of our experts.Learn