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Heuritech:2022年巴黎秋季高定時裝周趨勢報告(英文版)(23頁).pdf

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Heuritech:2022年巴黎秋季高定時裝周趨勢報告(英文版)(23頁).pdf

1、Grisha Chernigowsky Fall 22 Couture Report INDEX123 Casual Couture1st Degree OpulenceKey TakeawaysMAISON MARGIELACasualCouture1FENDICasual CoutureBased on the Fall 22 collections,Haute Couture is clearly evolving.While some designers adhered to a classical vision of couture with over-the-top embelli

2、shments and dramatic silhouettes,there was also a substantial amount of looks that appeared,upon first glance,as ready-to-wear.The Casual Couture theme indicates a dialogue between RTW and Haute Couture,as brands included trends like total denim looks,tank tops,and even sneakers in their collections

3、 this season.The presence of men in many shows also points to an evolution of Haute Couture-a domain previouslyReady-to-Wear meets Couture1.MAISON MARGIELA2.CHANEL3.BALENCIAGA4.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIERreserved for womenswear.Such brands taking a more casual approach elevate their looks by adding dramatic

4、details to give it that Couture touch.For example,Balenciagas Couture show included several ready-to-wear garments like a denim jacket,adding a dramatic oversized collar,styled with a futuristic face mask to elevate the look.Tailoring is another key part of the theme,as brands are increasingly inclu

5、ding suits and blazers in their Couture collections.Alexandre Vauthier and Fendi both included suits in their collections,opting for luxurious materials like leather to justify the silhouettes presence in a Couture show.1.3.4.1.2.Wide Leg TrousersThe wide leg formal trouser was a popular choice amon

6、gst the brands who presented more casual silhouettes for Fall 22 Couture week.Brands used luxurious materials like leather and tweed to elevate the otherwise casual shape.Our data indicates the shape is predicted to experience a massive 19%increase in visibility on social media by Fall 22 compared t

7、o 2021,making the trend a must-have Fashion Bet.Chic but effortless1.FENDI2.CHANEL3.CHARLES DE VILMORIN4.VALENTINO5.MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ3.4.Fashion BetWomen+19%2.3.4.5.1.BlazersBrands unleashed their creativity to add a twist to the classic blazer.Viktor&Rolf played with the menswear silhouette with

8、 their structured oversized blazer in line with their experimental yet playful brand DNA.Balmain added metallic details along the seems to add an opulent touch.Even though its a timeless silhouette,our AI predicts a 11%increase in visibility on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year,making it

9、 a Fashion Bet.Classics with a twist1.VALENTINO2.MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ3.BALMAIN X JPG4.VICTOR&ROLF5.FENDI3.4.Fashion BetWomen+11%2.3.4.5.1.Black Formal Coats The Black Formal Coat was a go-to outerwear silhouette at Fall 22 Couture week.The trend is a staple in the realm of readyto-wear,but has a sen

10、se of elegance that lends itself well to Couture looks.The Black Formal Coat is predicted to experience s slight increase in visibility on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year,and is an ideal choice to include in an upcoming collection due to its versatility.Ultra long length1.ARMANI PRIVE2

11、.BALENCIAGA3.CHANEL4.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER5.SCHIAPARELLI3.4.Safe BetWomen+3%2.3.4.5.1.StripesStripes were one of the only prints to appear on the Couture runways.Although there were some thick stripes,pinstripes were the most common choice,used for tailored looks.Stripes are predicted to maintain a sta

12、ble presence on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year,making the stripe trend a Safe Bet for an upcoming collection.Tailoring meets Couture1.BALMAIN X JPG2.VICTOR&ROLF3.ALEXIS MABILLE4.RAHUL MISHRA5.ARMANI PRIVE3.4.Safe BetWomen+1%In Fall 22 vs.last yearFLATMagnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTRE

13、AM,TRENDY&EDGY2.3.4.5.1.DenimDenim seems to be the hottest trend in fashion lately-it was all over the mens SS 23 runways,and was even had a significant presence during Couture week despite its casual appeal.A total denim look was seen by Alexandre Vauthier,while Balmains Jean Paul Gaultier opted fo

14、r a trompe loeil denim look.The material has a massive magnitude on social media and is deemed a Safe Bet for Fall 22.Americana Couture1.BALENCIAGA2.JEAN PAUL GAULTIER3.RONALD VAN DER KEMP4.SCHIAPARELLI5.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER3.4.Safe BetWomen-6%2.3.4.5.1.Cut OutsPop of Skin1.CHANEL2.ANTONIO GRIMALDI3.F

15、ENDI4.JEAN PAUL GAULTIER X BALMAIN 5.VALENTINO 3.4.2.3.4.5.The Cut Out trend has been a favourite in the fashion scene for at least two years now,especially in the ream of RTW.The trend has reached the Couture runways,as brands included pops of skin in their Fall 222 collections.While Cut Outs most

16、often appeared as a modest keyhole placement,brands like Valentino or Fendi proposed a more skin-baring version of the trend.1.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsCheckTrompe-loeilFloralBeige NudeLight blueBlackSilk&SatinTweedVirgin woolDrama earringSequinsturtle-neckEmbellishedBraBroochShapesAnkl

17、e bootsCasual Couture-Starter PackAlter NeckDress1st DegreeOpulence2BALENCIAGA1st Degree OpulenceThe theme of 1st Degree Opulence represents an over-the-top vision of Haute Couture-the opposite approach of our Casual Couture theme.Brands in the realm of 1st Degree Opulence lean into the stereotypica

18、l couture aesthetic by presenting opulent,voluminous gowns covered in embellishments,styled with opera gloves and flamboyant accessories.Fall 22 Couture Week was defined by two competing tendencies-one affirming the traditional vision of Couture,and the other modernizing it.Brands like Balenciaga fu

19、sed these two approaches in their show-their collection was presented in a traditional Over-the-top Couture1.MSGM2.EGONLAB3.BLUEMARBLE4.RHUDECouture salon,while models wore handbags that double as speakers with futuristic face masks created in collaboration with Mercedes.The name of the theme refers

20、 to an almost clich vision of Couture that was present this season-brands like Giambattista Valli and Elie Saab presented all-over embellished confectionary ball gowns,using materials like tulle and feathers in shades of pink,silver,and gold.In a world where the need for Couture is increasingly call

21、ed into question,perhaps the presence of 1st Degree Opulence for Fall 22 Couture week could be an attempt to pay homage to this ostensibly outdated mode of dressing.1.3.4.1.2.FeathersFeathers are an unexpected up-and-coming trend in fashion,reflected by our AIs prediction of a massive 41%predicted i

22、ncrease on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year.The flamboyant material was present throughout the Couture shows,and has also had a high presence in ready-to-wear as well lately,despite its formalwear associations.Coutures Star Trend1.GIAMBATTISTA VALLI2.JULIE DE LIBRAN3.ELIE SAAB4.ZUHAIR M

23、URAD5.VALENTINO3.4.Bold BetWomen+41%2.3.4.5.1.GownsBall Gowns are the key shape of Couture.Every season brands find new ways to elevate the formal silhouette.Designers opted for a playful approach for FW 22,using bright colors and intricate embellishments,seen by Zuhair Murads astrological motifs.Ou

24、r data reflects the increased interest in formalwear with a 14%predicted increase in visibility on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year.Traditional Formalwear1.ARDAZEI2.VALENTINO3.ZUHAIR MURAD4.JUANA MARTIN5.GIAMBATTISTA VALLI3.4.Fashion BetWomen+14%2.3.4.5.1.MetallicMetallic looks were all

25、 over the runways,as the material creates an eye catching look that is ideal for an over-the-top Couture look.Metallic most often appeared as a head-to-toe look to create a maximal impact.The trend is slated to experience an 11%increase in visibility on social media by Fall 22 compared to last year,

26、and is deemed a Fashion Bet for the upcoming season.Head to Toe Shine1.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER2.BALENCIAGA3.FENDI4.GIAMBATTISTA VALLI5.JEAN PAUL GAULTIER3.4.Fashion BetWomen+11%2.3.4.5.1.See ThroughSee through materials like silk chiffon were all over the COuture runways.The materials lends itself to an

27、ethereal look that modernizes typical couture.Fendi and Giambattista Valli added all over embellishments for a luxurious look,while Chanel and Dior kept their sheer looks more minimal.The sheer look had a significant presence at Valentinos show this season,adding feathers and rose motifs to create a

28、 flamboyant look.Transparency is key 1.FENDI2.ALEXI MABILLE3.VALENTINO4.GIAMBATTISTA VALLI5.CHRISTIAN DIOR3.4.Safe BetWomen1%2.3.4.5.1.EmbellishmentOver-the-top Decadence1.GIAMBATTISTA VALLI2.BALENCIAGA3.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER4.VALENTINO5.SCHIAPARELLI3.4.2.3.4.5.It comes as no surprise to see a plethora

29、 of embellishment at Couture week.Some of the most popular choices for FW 22 were crystal embellishments,and all over strass as seen by the likes of Fendi.Ornate embellishment is a key aspect of couture as it takes time and savoir faire to create such garments.Crystal embellishments also are eye cat

30、ching and create a look that is undeniably over-the-top.1.Evening GlovesRegency Reloaded1.ELIE SAAB2.JULIE DE LIBRAN3.BALENCIAGA4.VALENTINO5.RONALD VAN DER KEMP3.4.2.3.4.5.The elegant evening glove first gained popularity during the Regency period at the beginning of the 19th century.The opera glove

31、 has become a staple accessory in the realm of formalwear,thus it is often seen on the Couture runways.Elie Saab elevated the evening glove this season by adding crystal embellishments to match the opulence of the gowns it is styled with.Valentinos show included several opera gloves,often in contras

32、ting colors for a fresh twist.1.Train DetailsDialed up Drama1.ELIE SAAB2.ANTONIO GRIMALDI3.VALENTINO4.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER5.JEAN PAUL GAULTIER X BALMAIN3.4.2.3.4.5.Train gowns create a dramatic statement that explains their popularity on the Couture runways season after season.Train details either app

33、eared on a dress,cape,and even gloves as seen by Olivier Rousteings Jean Paul Gaultier.The train a frivolous design element which is exactly why it belongs at Couture week.Valentino took it to the next level with their feather-adorned bright pink train cape.1.FringeRoaring 20s1.VALENTINO2.ELIE SAAB3

34、.ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER4.JUANA MARTIN5.ZUHAIR MURAD3.4.2.3.4.5.Fringe has been a popular design detail in ready-to-wear for several seasons now,and has started to appear in Couture as well.The fringed detail adds a sense of drama and movement to any look that recalls flapper dresses of the 1920s.Since i

35、t is couture week,it is logical to see fringe adorned with embellishments,seen by the likes of Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad.1.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsGeometricsFloralPlumetis dotsEmeraldFushiaWhiteSequinsEmbroidered LaceSilk ChiffonCristal shoesMaxi puffySleevesAsymmetrical&Slit dressBow

36、sShapes3D Flowers1st Degree Opulence-Starter PackDeep V neckdress1.Brands in the realm of Casual Couture integrated ready-to-wear elements into their collections this season,representing an evolution of Haute Couture2.1st Degree Couture describes brands who presented collections that adhere to class

37、ical couture codes,reflected by an abundance of feathers,embellishments,embroidery,and voluminous silhouettes3.The top trends from Fall 22 Couture week were feathers,metallic fabrics,ball gowns,wide leg trousers,and blazers,which are all predicted to experience at least a 10%growth on social media by Fall 22 compared to last yearKeyTakeawaysSeaMARTIN MARGIELA


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