1、Womens FW 22Fashion WeeksReportCourtesy of PradaFW 22 womens fashion week represented a major shift from the past two seasons;not only did FW 22 see the full return of the physical runways shows,along with the spectacle of it all,but it almost felt as though the mid-pandemic seasons of phygital show

2、s never even happened,attesting to the amnesia of the fashion industry.However,this season there was a new existential threat for designers to reckon with(or not),prompting the evaluation of fashions raison detre under the threat of war.Interestingly,a sense of doom and darkness,elaborated in our Do

3、omsday Dressing theme,was one of the biggest inspirations this season,seen across all major fashion cities.Since brands must begin planning and designing their collections months in advance(far before the war started),the presence of ominous themes attests to fashions uncanny ability to act as a lex

4、icon in visually expressing the lair du temps,even if subconsciously.Several brands were inspired by the interwar period,sending drop waist silhouettes and fringed dresses down the runway;Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini was inspired by the women of the Weimar Republic this season which is certainly t

5、opical to the current state of apprehension.Ominous EleganceEditoProtective silhouettes,either in the form of a cocoon or more armor-like,were another trend reflecting the state of anxiety many of us feel from the seemingly never ending stream of life-changing global events.Climate disaster,war,a pa

6、ndemic Its no wonder designers impulse was to create enveloping silhouettes this season,to provide a sense of comfort and safety through clothing.Another key force throughout fashion month was a back-to-basics approach.Several designers,when speaking of their FW 22 collections,mention focusing on th

7、e everyday wardrobe;on the runways,this resulted in a plethora of simple ribbed knit tank tops,denim,leather,and lots of suiting.In line with this simple approach,brands also gravitated towards neutral,muted colors in stark contrast to the dopamine dressing trend that has been the dominant color pal

8、ette for the past two seasons.Overall,this season brought us shows that were far less colorful,less optimistic,and less sexy compared to FW 21 and SS 22,in favor of muted colors,enveloping silhouettes,and a sense of impending doom to lead us into the FW 22 season.Dries Van Noten INDEX123 4 City Spot

9、lightThe top runway trends,divided by city,analyzed by our AIThe FW 21 to Streetstyle pipelineThematic Trend AnalysisStar TrendsSee how the most common silhouettes were adapted in different waysThe standout colors,prints,fabrics,silhouettes,and accessories See how trends from last season are being w

10、orn on the streetsPetar PetrovCitySpotlight1Dries Van NotenTailored Formal Pants22%Top trendsCopenhagenFloral13%Blouses25%In Copenhagen,out of all the runway images including pants,22%contained tailored formal pants.The formal tailored pant was a popular silhouette in line with the tailoring revival

11、.Concerning prints,floral was a stand out one specific to Copenhagen,as it did not have a large presence in other fashion cities this season.Lastly,the classic blouse appeared in a quarter of all runway images from Copenhagen.Bohemian tunic silhouettes were the most common iteration,with the V neck

12、being a somewhat surprising neckline that was often used.1.GESTUZ2.SAKS POTTS3.MALENE BIRGER1.BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN2.SOULLAND3.STINE GOYA1.SKALL STUDIO2.THE GARMENT3.MALENE BIRGER1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Belted Jackets10%Top trendsNew YorkLeggings19%Crop Tops7%Hourglass silhouettes were quite popular this s

13、eason,reflected by the presence of belted jackets in New York,representing 10%of all images analyzed containing outerwear.The skinny silhouette was also back,as leggings were present in 19%of all runway images analyzed from New York.Lastly,the sexy dressing trend was less popular this season,reflect

14、ed by the crop top comprising only 7%of all runway looks from New York.1.ET OCHS2.MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH3.MICHAEL KORS1.ET OCHS2.PH53.LAQUAN SMITH1.HELMUT LANG2.ECKHAUS LATTA3.KIM SHUI1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Trench Coats19%Top trendsLondonStrapless Dresses4%Mini Skirts54%In London,the trench coat was the dom

15、inating outerwear silhouette,in line with the general trend of classic silhouettes that partially defined this season.The coat represented 19%of all London runway images containing outerwear.The strapless dress made a surprising appearance on party dresses,comprising a 4%share of dresses seen on the

16、 runways of London.The mini skirt was the breakout trend,representing over half of all runway images from London containing a skirt.1.TEMPERLEY LONDON2.REJINA PYO3.ROKSANDA1.16ARLINGTON2.FASHION EAST3.MARK FEAST1.POSTER GIRL2.SUPRIYA LELE3.16ARLINGTON1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Spaghetti Strap Dresses8%Top tr

17、endsMilanShearling Coats15%Wide leg pants16%The spaghetti strap neckline was a common choice in Milan,used to create lingerie-inspired looks.Out of all the dress and sleeve variations spotted on dresses from the Milan runways this season,the spaghetti strap dress accounted for 8%of them.The shearlin

18、g coat was a stand-out as well,appearing in 15%of runway images containing a coat,in line with the cloudwear theme.Lastly,the wide leg pant was visible in 16%of runway images,demonstrating that the wide leg pants craze is not quite over yet.1.FENDI2.MSGM3.BLUMARINE1.ETRO2.FERRARI3.DIESEL1.2.3.1.2.3.

19、1.2.3.1.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI2.CORMIO3.JOHAN KU Tailored Formal Pants19%Top trendsParisChecked Prints30%Strapless Dresses7%In Paris,tailored formal pants accounted for 19%of images analysed containing pants,very similar to what we saw in Copenhagen,as brands returned to classic suiting this season.Chec

20、ked prints were by far the most visible print in Paris,appearing in 30%of images containing a printed garment.Lastly,the strapless dress had a small presence in Paris just like London,appearing in 7%of runway images analyzed.1.CALVIN LUO2.LOUIS VUITTON3.VALENTINO1.MIU MIU2.LOEWE3.PHILOSOPHY DI LOREN

21、ZO 1.ANNE ISABELLA2.LOEWE3.GIVENCHY 1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.FW 21 TrendsStreetstyle Adoption 2Petar PetrovFurStreet Style Penetration Rate 9%FW 21+4%In Winter 21 vs.FLATMagnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGYFW 22+3%In Winter 22 vs.FLATMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation TRENDY 1.denishapalsha2.alinabai

22、kova3.arumstreetstyleDuring the FW 21 report we predicted the growth of Fur for the coming seasons.In 2021 it was seen on the runway and;ater on the streets in classic colours and simple patterns especially by brands like Fendi,Ambush and Peter Do.This versatility and simplicity helped the trend pen

23、etrate the different segments of the market and grow exponentially.Fast forward to a year later,during the fashion months in 2022,we saw this trend elevate to another level.We spotted trendy fashionistas adopting for bolder patterns and brighter hues.The elegance and sophistication of this fabric ha

24、s reached a new peak and is expected to reach other segments in the coming seasons.2.3.1.QuiltedStreet Style Penetration Rate 21%1.thestylograph2.despi_naka3.streetstylespy.dkLast year,we predicted a growth of 1%for Quilted fabric trends.This gave birth to countless variations such as big padded and

25、 sewed fabrics.Seen on the FW 21 runway of brands like Miu Miu and Loewe,this trend swiftly caught the attention of mainstream consumers.The functionality and sporty aesthetic made it attractive to different markets and this was only the beginning of it.Skip to 2022,we are still seeing this trend ev

26、olve in other categories of the fashion market like bottoms and accessories.With a steady curve for the coming seasons and the rapid trickle down of the trend,we can expect brands to experiment further and continue to keep it interesting.FW 211%In Winter 21 vs.FLATMagnitude SMALLSegmentation MAINSTR

27、EAM&EDGY FW 22-2%In Winter 22 vs.STEADYMagnitude SMALLSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY2.3.1.2.3.1.1.leoniehanne2.tamara3.karlphotographyLast year,we predicted a growth of+1%for the Green colorway at large.This was only a few weeks after Bottega Venetas Spring 2021 collection had hit the stores.Th

28、e italian house had already been in a powerful momentum for a few seasons,and in synch with the dopamine dressing craze,the kelly green took the world by storm.A year later,this peculiar shade of green has boosted the data for the whole green palette that is predicted to continue growing with a+25%i

29、ncrease.It was especially adopted by the edgy fashion crowd that was not afraid to opt for bold monochromatic looks.FW 21+1%In Winter 21 vs.FLATMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY FW 22+25%In Winter 22 vs.STRONGLY INCREASINGMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGYGreenStreet Style Penetration

30、Rate 3.3%ThematicTrends Analysis3Sandy LiangDoomsday DressingThe FW 22 season was defined by a sense of darkness,as brands sent super villain looks down the runways.Balenciaga was a stand out embodying the theme of doom and disaster,with their snowstorm dfil being a clever albeit bleak commentary on

31、 not just the war,but the threat of climate disaster.The popularity of Demnas show this season attests to the fashion-as-spectacle mode of presentation,especially considering that the garments were rather similar to his previous seasons work.Super Villain Chic1.BALENCIAGA2.BLUMARINE3.GIVENCHY4.RAF S

32、IMONSOther ways in which the theme of doom dressing was evoked was in the form of grunge inspiration,with distressed materials and the plaid flannel coming back into fashion this season.In Milan,brands like Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Blumarine sent vampy,sexy looks down the runway;the former

33、 was inspired by women of the Weimar republic which is certainly topical to the political climate today.Lastly,we also saw brands like Raf Simons and RIck Owens explore the dark theme from a more monastic perspective,sending statuesque yet imposing silhouettes down the runway.1.1.1.4.3.1.2.KeyColour

34、s1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 3%Correlating PANTONE code 19-3850 TCXBright Red1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 11%Correlating PANTONE code 17-1563 TCX+2%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 39%Correlating PANTONE code 19-3911 TCXPurpleBlackDoomsday DressingKey Colors1.RAF SIMONS2.

35、SPORTMAX3.PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI4.BLUMARINE5.ACNE STUDIOSIn the Doomsday Dressing theme,intense purple,red and black were the most common colors to create this vampy,dark aesthetic.We most often saw pops of color styled with black or white,or in full monochrome looks as demonstrated by Acne

36、Studios.All three colors in the Doomsday palette are slated to have a flat behavior by Winter 22 compared to last year,making them Safe Bets for an upcoming Winter collection.2.4.3.5.1.Key FabricsVinylBig PaddedDistressed Details+6%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 5%Doomsday Dressing-4%In Winte

37、r 22 vs.last yearRunway Share:4%Doomsday DressingKey Fabrics1.KWAIDAN EDITIONS2.OTTOLINGER3.ECKHAUS LATTA4.HELIOT EMIL5.RICK OWENSDramatic puffer jackets,either in a cropped or maxi length silhouette,were the most common applications of big padded fabrics in the realm of Doomsday Dressing.The fabric

38、 is slated to remain relatively flat on social media Winter 22,making it a Safe Bet for the upcoming winter season.Vinyl is a fetish-inspired material being a key trend particularly amongst the brands who explored a more sexy side of doom dressing,namely Blumarine and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

39、The distressed detail well evokes the grunge inspiration that came back with a force this season;while denim was the most common fabric distressing was applied to,knit was also a rather common choice2.4.3.5.1.Key PrintsGraphic TextPlaidHoundstooth-7%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 6%+3%In Wint

40、er 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 2%1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 8%Doomsday DressingDoomsday DressingKey Prints1.VERSACE2.(DI)VISION3.COACH4.GIVENCHY5.VAQUERAPlaid is the token grunge fabric,appearing on classic flannel shirts which made a return this season after years of low visibility on

41、the edgy market.In addition to the flannel,the print appeared on pyjama pants as well,seen by Vaquera and Loewe.The graphic t shirt was another key print comprising the doomsday look.Givenchys collection prominently featured metal-band-inspired shirts with a harsh graphic print,similar to what we sa

42、w at Coach with their teddy bear graphic t shirts.Houndstooth was a somewhat surprising print that brands in the realm of doomsday dressing included in their collections as well,in bold,contrasting colors to create that hardcore appel.2.4.3.5.1.CorsetryMaxi CoatKeyShapesStatement ShouldersMaxi Lengt

43、h CoatsThe maxi length coat is a dramatic outerwear piece that had a significant presence throughout fashion weeks.The coat creates a train effect to drive home the super villain look that many brands were fond of this season.The behavior is slated to remain stable on social media by Winter 22 compa

44、red to last lear,making it a Safe Bet for a Fall 22 collection.Super villain chic1.TRUSSARDI2.HELIOT EMIL3.KOCH4.DEL CORE5.DION LEE2.3.4.Safe BetWomen+1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearFLATMagnitude MASSIVE3.4.5.Choker NecklacesKeyAccessoriesHeavy Platform BootsDetached SleevesIn Summer 22 vs.last yearFLAT

45、Magnitude BIGSafe BetWomen-2%Heavy Platform BootsPlatform shoes have been the go-to silhouette both on and off the runway,indicating the trend has reached an established phase of the trend cycle.However,with the popularity of Grungy Matrix aesthetics,chunky boots supported by an exaggerated platform

46、 are the edgy new look.They will be highly visible for Winter 22 and predicted to remain stable.That extra height3.4.2.3.4.5.1.BMUET(TE)2.TRUSSARDI3.BALMAIN4.BOTTEGA VENETA5.BACONStarter packColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesNormcore ReloadedThis season,several designers opted to focus on ev

47、eryday garments rather than infusing their collections with obscure references and historical research,offering a breath of fresh air,or“simple clothes for a complicated time”-a quote describing MM6 Margielas show this season.This attitude of simplification logically resulted in a plethora of timele

48、ss garments on the runways,with the white tank top being a somewhat surprising breakout trend this season,seen by Prada and Bottega Veneta.Alberta Ferrettis collection was also grounded in wardrobe essentials,Back to the Basics1.KHAITE2.COMMISSION3.JIL SANDER4.PROENZA SCHOULERwith tailoring and knit

49、s being the central elements of her collection;Tods took a similar approach,pairing tailored classics with knitwear garments to balance elegance and comfort.Suiting was a major focus for brands this season,perhaps indicating a sense of nostalgia for tailoring after 2 years of loungewear domination.T

50、he suit was the central focus of Peter Dos collection this season,with the designer setting that“it takes time to make,that you dont need to buy many,and that when you find a good one,it becomes your safe space.”1.2.4.3.KeyColours+10%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 0.8%Correlating PANTONE code

51、 18-0228 TCX+3%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 3.08%Correlating PANTONE code 18-4036 TCX-4%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 6%Correlating PANTONE code 14-1038 TCXDark GreenBlue Beige Normcore ReloadedKey Colors1.JIL SANDER2.PETER DO3.SAKS POTTS4.HELMUT LANG5.REJINA PYOMuted earth tones we

52、re the go-to palette this season,particularly amongst brands who focused on the everyday vestiaire.This represents a turn away from the“dopamine dressing”theme that has dominated fashion for several months,and has now reached a mature phase of the trend lifecycle.Moreover,the colors appeared on thei

53、r most“expected”silhouettes-beige trench coats,blue jeans,and medium green accents to provide some color.However,the“green screen”color that became a signature of Bottega Veneta was largely absent this season,in favor of darker shades of olive and forest green.2.4.3.5.1.Key FabricsDenimSequinsLeathe

54、r-1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 9.8%+0.4%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 5.7%1%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 9.5%Normcore ReloadedNormcore Reloaded Key Fabrics1.COMMISSION2.FENDI3.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI 4.BOTTEGA VENETA5.CALVIN LUOAlthough denim and leather immediately come to mi

55、nd when thinking of wardrobe staples,sequins are not typically considered an everyday material.However,this season,brands like Commission presented sequins paired with casual garments for a festive everyday look.Moreover,brands envisioned new ways to apply denim and leather namely,Bottega Veneta cre

56、ated“jeans”made of leather,bridging two of the biggest fabric trends of the season.2.4.3.5.1.Key PrintsSnake PinstripesIllustration+0.5%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 31%-9%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 2%+4%In Winter 22 vs.last yearRunway Share 31%Normcore ReloadedNormcore ReloadedKe

57、y Prints1.SAKS POTTS2.MICHAEL KORS3.BOTTEGA VENETA4.MM6 MAISON MARGIELA5.ISSEY MIYAKEAlthough prints were not a major component of the everyday basics theme,pinstripes,snake print,and illustrated patterns were peppered throughout collections to add a graphic intrigue.Snake was an interesting trend t

58、o see,as it has not been very present in recent fashion weeks;MM6 used the snake print on accessories to accent their unisex collection,created with the everyday wardrobe in mind.Pinstripes were another common choice amongst brands who focused on tailoring this season,in line with the prints classic

59、al application.Brands like Jil Sander used expressive illustrated effects as a print,to add a artful and elegant appeal to the collection.2.4.3.5.1.Button Down ShirtsTank TopsKeyShapesTrench CoatTank TopsThe classic ribbed knit tank top that everyone has in their closet is officially a runway trend,

60、as the garment was featured in a surprising number of shows.The tank top embodies the back-to-basics approach that many designers took this season.The top is predicted to have a slight increase in visibility of 7 points by Winter 22 compared to last year,making it a safe bet when paired with its mas

61、sive magnitude.The wife protector1.PRADA2.CHLOE3.ETRO4.ANNAKIKI5.GAUCHERE2.3.4.Safe BetWomen+7%In Winter 22 vs.last yearSLIGHTLY INCREASINGMagnitude MASSIVE3.4.5.Mule SandalKeyAccessoriesFrame BagThick Waist BeltFrame BagThat coin pouch that your grandmother carries around?Yes,its been supersized,no

62、w serving as the new must-have.Vintage has a huge influence on this theme,apparent from ready-to-wear to accessories.The frame adapts itself easily to bag current bag trends,namely to small bags,clutch bags and even soft bags.While lending itself to multiple shapes,this bag didnt show a lot of varie

63、ty in terms of colours and fabrics,which again mimics the vintage influence on our theme.Our grandmothers favourite1.SPORTMAX2.SACAI3.KHAITE4.STEFAN COOKE5.JIL SANDER2.3.4.5.Starter packColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesLight AcademiaOut of all the key themes that emerged from the FW 22 fash

64、ion weeks,the LIght Academia is by far the most ethereal,youthful theme compared to the overall sense of darkness and seriousness that defined many brands collections.The Light Academia theme is the counterpart to the Dark Academic aesthetic that flourished on TikTok,describing a nostalgic collegiat

65、e aesthetic involving preppy garments and a twee sensibility.Brands who evoke the theme of Light Academia played with combining sportswear elements and tailoring,as exemplified by Coperni and Rokh.Back to School!1.GUCCI2.MIU MIU3.COPERNI4.ANNE ISABELLA In fact,both of these brands even included prom

66、 dresses this season to really drive the back-to-school theme home.Miu Miu also embodied the Light Academia theme this season,continuing where they left off in SS 22 with their viral preppy-meets-Y2K collection that fashion lovers cannot seem to get enough of.This season Miu Miu took a sportier appr

67、oach,incorporating the tennis mini skirt and polo neck tops alongside classic printed fabrics and tailored garments to create an irresistible harmony between sportswear and prep that will certainly appeal to those privy to the Light Academia aesthetic.1.3.4.1.2.Starter packColorsPrintsFabricsAccesso

68、riesBrandsShapesCloudwearCloudwear describes the trend of dressing in puffy,enveloping silhouettes that started back in 2020,however this fashion week proved that the voluminous yet comforting trend is still very much relevant.After experiencing the loss of physical touch throughout the pandemic,the

69、 feeling of materials has gained a renewed appreciation,as touch is one sense that cannot be replaced digitally.Fur,quilted materials,and all types of knitwear are the key Cocooned&Cozy1.CHLO2.PATOU3.CHRISTIAN DIOR4.STELLA MCCARTNEYelements of the theme,which is primarily defined by texture and puff

70、y shapes.Such fabrics were complemented this season by a warm neutral palette or terracotta and shades of beige,balanced by sunny hues of marigold and sunset orange.The poncho is perhaps the most emblematic silhouette of the cloudwear theme,appearing in runway shows across all cities,with brands usi

71、ng comfy textiles to give the feeling of being wrapped in a blanket.1.3.4.1.2.Starter packColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesStarTrends 4Dries Van NotenThe Suit1.JONATHAN SIMKHAI2.PROENZA SCHOULER3.HELMUT LANG Tailoring in general was a central feature of FW 22 fashion weeks,thus the suit app

72、eared on even more runways than usual.Brands attested to the versatility of the suit considering the endless variations of it that we saw,from the mini skirt suit to oversized to slim tailored suiting.Although brands played with different fabrications and prints to give the silhouette a twist,the fo

73、cus this season was on the silhouette,as sculptural tailoring was popular in the runways.1.2.3.The SuitDoomsday Dressing1.4.2.3.5.1.1.HAN KJBENHAVN2.HELIOT EMIL3.SPORTMAX4.ANNAKIKI5.AMBUSHNormcore ReloadedThe Suit4.2.3.5.1.1.KHAITE2.TODS3.JIL SANDER4.PROENZA SCHOULER5.BOTTEGA VENETA Matching Accesso

74、ries1.DION LEE2.MAX MARA3.MICHAEL KORSMatching accessories was a popular styling choice across many shows.Designers explored materials and textures to the fullest,playing with exciting materials and bold colours as well as new and classical prints.The matching of the accessories to the garments for

75、a coherent look created some harmonious some very loud combos.Through full monochrome in bright colours or head-to-toe use of fabrics and prints,this star trend brought some impact to the runway in a whole new way.1.2.3.Matching AccessoriesDoomsday Dressing4.2.3.5.1.1.RAF SIMONS2.EMPORIO ARMANI3.ACN

76、E STUDIOS4.VERSACE5.HELIOT EMILMatching AccessoriesNormcore Reloaded4.2.3.5.1.1.MICHAEL KORS2.JIL SANDER3.ROBERTO CAVALLI4.CHRISTIAN SIRIANO5.BOTTEGA VENETA1.Doomsday Dressing was a break out theme this season that brands interpreted through 3 main prisms:grunge references,vampy fetish-inspired,and

77、industrial monochrome looks fit for a super villain2.Tailoring was another focus this season,embodied by our Normcore Revival theme that encapsulates the elegant and sculptural approach to wardrobe basics that brands like Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander explored3.Cloudwear describes the emphasis on vo

78、luminous,enveloping silhouettes in cozy and tactile fabrics.This theme represents the impulse to find comfort through fashion in times of crisis.4.Light Academia,was the most optimistic theme to appear throughout FW 22 fashion weeks,being defined by a nostalgic reinterpretation of collegiate dressin

79、g codes,mixed with sportswear.5.In the realm of accessories,we saw an abundance of classics with a twist brought by either contrasting styling choices or clashing proportions,for instance a sock boot and an exaggerated platform.6.Denim,suits,blazers,and matching accessories to the look were the star

80、 trends to emerge from fashion week,meaning they appeared in the collections of brands across all themes,and can easily be adapted to different aesthetics KeyTakeawaysSeaKhaiteActually,we didnt tell you everythingFor the full report,please get in touch at:You can also subscribe to our newsletter to never miss our next reports or webinarsSubscribe to our newsletter