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Heuritech:2022年秋冬時裝周男裝關鍵趨勢報告(英文版)(57頁).pdf

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Heuritech:2022年秋冬時裝周男裝關鍵趨勢報告(英文版)(57頁).pdf

1、FW 22 Mens Fashion Week ReportPhoto courtesy of Prada AGENDA123 Methodology Thematic Trend Analysis New Age Explorer Youthful Irreverence Dapper Dandy Star Trends on the Runway4 Key TakeawaysCASABLANCAIt may be a clich,but its true.Todays man is multi-faceted,plural and polymorphic.The Fall Winter 2

2、022 season which has just ended is no exception to this modern adage.What could be more natural in an era that encourages the questioning of our lifestyles,our relationships with the body and with others?This season,our man embodies freedom from the codes of masculinity.He is comfortable with his fe

3、minine side,plays with the virile character of a classic style,and embraces a much more transversal identity.Suits and their cuts are more delicate,relaxed and soft.Shimmering materials,lots of jewelry,and a wave of small accessories were abundant,comprising the look of a contemporary dandy.He juggl

4、es the codes of a slightly outdated luxury along with a sense of detached irony,representing the epitome of a dandy.Contrary to the neat and controlled allure of certain looks,another interpretation of the modern man is played out.Very much in line with the refusal of an abstruse world,this aestheti

5、c refers to ones inner child,marked by nostalgia to cultural and aesthetic references of times that he may not even know.This aesthetic has nothing to do with the codes of elegance and,like a clumsy teenager,offer a vision of the male wardrobe borrowing from casualness and codes that can be identifi

6、ed as pop and streetwear.“Choose your character”EditoPhoto courtesy of PradaAt the crossroads of these two worlds which happily collide in the same criticism of the standardization of locker rooms,the stigmata of the pandemic are still very present and the desire to wander is reflected in a third we

7、ll-identified stylotype,that of the Explorer.Whether in between two journeys or an urban adventurer,this man adopts all the elements of the outdoors to translate them into outfits equally fitting for a climbing expedition or brunch in the city.Combining the technicality of innovative materials with

8、garment cuts that optimize movement almost creates the look of a galaxy traveller.With the interpretation of the exploration wardrobe close to the universe of Jack London,the Fall Winter 2022 season opens doors to elsewhere,a mindset that invites you to dream of wide open spaces and adventure.Last r

9、esort in the face of the impossibility of moving freely,clothing takes the place of our now restricted travel plans.Thus,the world of fashion once again invites us to deeply question our world and the very essence of individuality.Instead of standardization,this season offers each man the opportunit

10、y to powerfully embody an axis of contemporary masculinity by opening up the field of possibilities and proposing enthusiastic alternatives.Scope:The selection of trends is based on the manual curation of catwalk trends(London,Paris,and Milan).That represents over 100 shows and more than 8,000 pictu

11、res.Data source:Instagram posts in Europe and US,Vogue Runway,and Now Fashion.We analyzed millions of Instagram images to capture the dynamics of trends in the European market through our image recognition technology.Analysis period:Forecast for Winter 2022 compared to Winter 2021 Methodology of our

12、 trends analysis New Age ExplorerWhat lies beyond the horizon?TODSOAMC New Age ExplorerWhat lies beyond the horizon?The New Age Explorer represents an evolution of the Gorpcore subculture that has been at the forefront of fashions imagination for a couple of years now.Brands combined disparate eleme

13、nts of outdoor culture this season,drawing inspiration from anything and everything involving adventure,ranging from aviation to camping to climbing.Lookbooks shot in nature,or dfils incorporating elements of the environment were common this season,reinforcing the exploratory attitude that many bran

14、ds took for FW 22.Lemaire specifically well embodies the New Age Explorer theme this season,with an impressionistic Dune-esque landscape creating the background to their runway collection,composed of“an urban horde of modern-day hunter-gatherers”.In addition to the typical“outdoorsy”brands like Whit

15、e Mountaineering and Engineered Garments,luxury players like Brunello Cucinelli and Isabel Marant fell in line with the New Age Explorer theme as well by combining contemporary gorpcore aesthetics with vintage outdoor references.Camouflage,fleece,snow boots,and cargo pants are amongst the key stylis

16、tic elements evoking this theme,however they were given a futuristic twist through unexpected styling choices.ANTONIO MARRASNew Age Explorer 1.Isabel Marant2.Engineered Garments 3.Herms4.Brunello CucinelliVUARNET1234LEMAIREAviator Jacket14567823If we saw the return of the classic bomber jacket for F

17、W 21,we predict its more elevated sibling to make our hearts yearn next season.Many designers opted for a more delicate look,using soft materials like suede paired with fur or fleece trimmings.The additional use of a neutral colour palette,dominated by shades of brown,fully evokes the retro revival

18、of an open-cockpit pilot wardrobe in the 1930s.Segmentation TRENDY2Safe Bet2.Erdem3.Casablanca4.Brunello Cucinelli5.JW Anderson6.Ernest W.Baker7.Fendi1.Lemaire8.TodsKnitwear is a guaranteed staple for winter,and for next season the runways have clearly pushed a Marled Knit pattern.Mainly mixing neut

19、ral tones,focusing on earthy shades,these sweaters appeared in multiple shapes,including cardigans,loose turtlenecks and oversized V-necks.While the marled pattern is already well-known on the market,our data predicts edgy and trendy audiences to be the main consumers of this trend in FW 22.Segmenta

20、tion TRENDY&EDGY 2Safe BetMarled Knit145678232.Our Legacy3.Antonio Marras1.OAMC4.Auralee5.Tods6.Gabriela Hearst7.Acne Studios8.MissoniSegmentation MAINSTREAM&TRENDY2Steady145678232.Vuarnet3.Bluemarble4.Isabel Marant5.Loewe6.Children of the Discordance7.Dsquared21.Sacai8.Dolce&GabbanaSnow BootsFashio

21、n-forward consumers are now mixing their urban style with utilitarian products.Therefore,Snow Boots are no longer an exclusive item for winter sports;the silhouette has evolved with added features like thick laces,track soles,and zip pockets,fitted to the urban outdoors.While our data reveals that S

22、now Boots will slightly decrease for Fall 22,their prominent appearance in the collections of major brands such as Loewe,Sacai,and Isabel Marant will propel it to be extremely popular among edgy and trendy customers next season.Segmentation TRENDY2Safe Bet145678232.Walter Van Beirendonck3.Neil Barre

23、tt4.Heron Preston5.TAAKK6.Etro7.Roberto Cavalli1.Gravalot8.HermsCombat BootsThis season Combat Boots were highly popular on the runway,once again confirming established utilitarian aesthetics.Brands such as Louis Vuitton,Herms and Roberto Cavalli presented heavier versions of the boots,with chunky l

24、ug soles or even lacquer leather.Our data predicts the desirability of this trend to be flat as Combat Boots became a new wardrobe staple for menswear in an urban environment.Cargo PantsYes,here it is again!The Cargo Pant seems to be holding a special place in designers hearts,by making another wide

25、spread appearance in the FW 22 collections.Having been widely adopted by the partisans of the Gorpcore aesthetic,we see brands like Rains evoke this style using waterproof materials.The trend has also made its way into a more classical realm.Brunello Cucinelli has paired a casual and slightly oversi

26、zed Cargo Pant with the top of suit,suggesting a need for boardroom to countryside attire.Many brands also showed off jackets and vests with cargo pockets,making a statement about their importance and practicality on Cargo Pants too.Clearly,we havent seen the last of the Cargo Pant,and it is surely

27、one to bet on for the FW 22 season.A new classicWales BonnerErnest W BakerBRUNELLO CUCINELLI1.Isabel Marant2.Neil Barrett3.Rains123Padded PantsAprs Ski but make it FashionWales BonnerErnest W BakerJUUN.J1.Sacai2.Solid Homme3.Rains123Padded fabrics are a classic choice for colder seasons and a typica

28、l outerwear option to provide warmth.Although quilted fabrics are typically seen on coats and jackets,this season quilted bottoms were ubiquitous as well,in line with the broader trend of tactile fabrics.From head-to-toe silhouettes to only one padded element,a large variety in styling was observed

29、in mostly full waterproof nylon looks.Rains and Solid Homme leaned into the utilitarian aspect of the quilted pant,while others like MSGM and and Juun.J took a more streetwear approach and emphasized volume.Overall,Padded Pants are clearly not just for the ski slopes anymore,but a trendy garment tha

30、t is sure to make a fashion statement.Isle KnitTypically an important characteristic of the ugly christmas sweater,the Isle Knit hasnt been very visible in fashion over the past few years.However,given the popularity of Alpine attire this season,it is logical that we are seeing the Isle Knit appeari

31、ng in several designers collections this season.Being in itself a pattern with a wide variety of designs,brands were also able to adapt the print however they saw fit to their collections in terms of colours and shapes.Due to the elaborate nature of the print,it is most often seen worn on its own,ho

32、wever we also saw some brands style it with clashing patterns to create a bold look,appealing to a more niche audience.A print revivedWales BonnerErnest W BakerMISSONI1.Etro2.Isabel Marant3.Dsquared2123Wallabee ShoesResurfacing this year as an up-and-coming trend,the Wallabee Shoe first became an it

33、-shoe in the early 80s hip-hop scene.The classic version of this shoe in earthy tones and suede was the common style this season,often paired with straight fit trousers as seen by Auralee and Rhude,or,as Kidsuper presented them,with subtle embroideries.We also saw them in different variations,like a

34、t Kenzo in full leather or even with a beak toe at Acne Studios.The Wallabee Shoe is breaking the misconception about being just a casual shoe,as we start to see it styled with not only sporty looks,but also with formal outfits on the runway and in street style.The underdogWales BonnerErnest W Baker

35、KIDSUPER1.Rhude2.Ouest Paris3.Acne Studios123Youthful IrreverenceRebellious NatureDRIES VAN NOTENARDUSSE Youthful IrreverenceRebellious NatureAs many have noted,there has been a major“vibe shift”recently,as reality and virtuality become increasingly enmeshed along with the impending domination of th

36、e Metaverse.The current merging of physical and digital realms is,of course,reflected through fashion.This is evidenced by the emergence of the“phygital”fashion show format that brands resorted to for the past few mid-pandemic seasons.The ubiquity of social media,particularly amongst the“very online

37、”youth,has emboldened many men to express themselves more freely through fashion,finding refuge in online communities of like-minded people.This freedom of expression has rendered styling combina-tions that would previously be considered“weird”the norm.As summarized by Dries Van Noten:“you can put a

38、 guy,say,in a pair of sequin pants and a nearly transparent knit sweater with a traditional English wool mens jacket on top of it.And nobodys going to say Oh,how shocking”.Since the“very online”tend to be of a younger generation,this theme reflects the journey of the contemporary young man from adol

39、escence to adulthood.Stylistically,the Youthful Irreverence theme is embodied through a sense of absurdity,ranging from ironic text printed on garments,to irreverent styling choices,like a suit worn with nothing underneath except for exposed boxers.MSGMYouthful Irreverence1.Loewe2.Dries Van Noten 3.

40、Opening Ceremony4.Bluemarble1234ARDUSSEMSGMFor the FW 22 season,indie and established brands alike added tongue-in-cheek text to garments to create a sense of playfulness or even shock factor in the case of Rick Owens“Urinal”tank.Since graphic text in general is a timeless trend,our data indicates a

41、 flat behavior on social media by Winter 22 compared to last year.Paired with a medium magnitude,the Comical Graphics trend is a Safe Bet.While text prints are most favored by mainstream consumers,it is certainly the edgy crowd who will first adopt the more comical and absurd versions of this trend.

42、Segmentation MAINSTREAM2Safe Bet145678232.Walter Van Beirendonck3.Nahmias4.Undercover5.Loewe6.Vetements7.Wales Bonner1.MSGM8.Rick OwensComical GraphicsThe V-Neckline has re-emerged in recent months,perhaps signalling the comeback of early 2010 aesthetics.For the FW 22 season,the V-Neckline appeared

43、primarily on jumpers and sweater vests that adapt to the cold season.The visibility of the V-Neck Sweater is slated to remain stable on social media by Winter 22 compared to last year,along with a medium magnitude making the trend a Safe Bet.The V-Neck Sweater is most popular amongst mainstream men,

44、however throughout fashion week several looks appeared that seem more likely to be worn by edgy consumers.Segmentation MAINSTREAM2Safe Bet232.Ami3.Kenzo4.Sacai5.Ernest W.Baker6.Missoni7.Wales Bonner1.Dries Van Noten8.LemaireV-Neck Sweater145678Gender norms have been dissolving in fashion for several

45、 years now,thus it is not surprising to see Pink appearing in menswear collections.The color has been popular for both men and women over several seasons already,with outerwear being a popular application for Pink this season.The visibility of the color is predicted to remain flat on social media by

46、 Winter 22 compared to last year,along with a big magnitude which makes it a Safe Bet.Moreover,the color is most popular amongst the trendy consumer segment.Segmentation TRENDY Safe Bet2.Ami3.JW Anderson4.Sacai5.Wooyoungmi6.Rolf Ekroth7.Dries Van Noten1.MSGM8.CasablancaPink14567823Ripped DenimRipped

47、 jeans are having a moment again!The Louis Vuitton team gave this trend a more refined look,by styling ripped jeans with more polished garments.Ripped Denim was also applied to jackets,as demonstrated by Maison Mihara Yasuhiros patchwork zipped jacket,worn with a patchwork jeans,bringing more depth

48、to a full denim look.Others like Dolce&Gabbana superimposed paint splashes,monograms,and dyed effects,to add a layer of further complexity.Even more classic brands applied it cautiously to their jeans,in contrast to the extravagant Vetements,that not only had Ripped Denim but actual cut-out denim le

49、aning into the grunge aesthetic as a nod to the current punk revival in pop culture.Grunge RevivalWales BonnerErnest W BakerMAISON MIHARA YASUHIRO1.Vetements2.Dsquared23.Louis Vuitton123Mary JanesWeve noticed an ongoing break from the traditional idea of gender conformity this season.Mary Jane shoes

50、 may not be so groundbreaking for a female audience,but spotting them worn by men on the runway was a breath of fresh air.Fendi presented us with beautifully crafted,delicate shoes,while JW Anderson and Comme des Garons created a heavier version of the silhouette with chunky outer soles.These shoes

51、have our hearts as they play into our nostalgia,and with the FW 22 collections indicating that Mary Janes could potentially become the next“it”shoe for menswear,we cant wait to see it appear in streetstyle.The Mary to my JaneWales BonnerErnest W BakerFENDI1.JW Anderson2.Wales Bonner3.Comme des Garon

52、s123UshankaThe Ushanka or Trapper hat,with its furry lining,retractable ear flaps and detachable front lip,was a surprisingly prominent feature on the FW 22 runways.The classic Italian fashion house Zegna showed their own nylon version styled with a polished belted coat for a winter-ready tailored l

53、ook.Other brands like Rhude and Pigalle decided to go big or go home with a massively oversized furry Ushanka,styled with matching jackets for an over-the-top effect.The question is:will the Ushanka be the next Balaclava?Definitely.From Moscow,with loveWales BonnerErnest W BakerPIGALLE1.Rhude2.Anton

54、io Marras3.Zegna 123ChokerThe Choker had a major comeback in 2014,being a popular accessories for a couple of years before largely disappearing from the fashion scene.The FW 22 season represents a comeback for this necklace,making its return as a popular mens accessory.The Choker can either create a

55、 soft,feminine aesthetic as demonstrated by GmbH with their crystal embellished version,or it can create a punk aesthetic,as Liberal Youth Ministrys demonstrated with their heavily spiked creation.Whether it be ethereal or dark,this accessory centres all the attention to the neck,creating a strong a

56、nd impactful look.Punk(r)evolutionWales BonnerErnest W BakerLIBERAL YOUTH MINISTRY1.Sankuanz2.GmbH3.Dolce&Gabbana123Single EarringLeft or right?Its up to you!We all have a favorite side and this season its your choice to enhance it with a Single Earring.A solitary earring is a token element of the“e

57、-boy”aesthetic that has blossomed on TikTok,attracting the attention of luxury brands who have hopped on the trend for the FW 22 season.Prada adds a fun and playful twist with their signature Robot,while Louis Vuitton and Dior opt for a more elegant gemstone version.This trend has become very popula

58、r through the years in the realm of womenswear,and has naturally become a genderless trend.From teenagers to adults,everyone has their own interpretation of eccentric motifs,and no two ear stacks will tell the same story.Solo partyWales BonnerErnest W BakerPRADA1.Sankuanz2.Louis Vuitton3.Dior123Dapp

59、er DandyAn Elegant SilhouetteFENDICASABLANCADapper DandyAn Elegant SilhouetteAs the name suggests,the theme of Dapper Dandy describes a soft approach to dressing that defined,in part,the FW 22 menswear shows.The aesthetic recalls the historical Dandy figure;a male archetypal aesthete,self-fashioned

60、in an elegant,aristocratic manner.Remnants of the modern Dandy were palpable at the Fendi show,which designer Silvia Fendi describes as being a celebration of“the classic wardrobe with which you are dressing for occasions”.This“occasion wear”was embodied through tailoring,brooches,fur coats,Mary Jan

61、es,and even bowties,styled with sportswear elements to adapt to our way of life in 2022.Davi Paris,Casablanca,Erdem,and Jil Sander all focused on an elegant sensibility for the FW 22 season,albeit through the prism of their respective brand DNAs.A sense of feminine sophistication was embodied throug

62、h generally subdued tones,with neutral colors and deep shapes of burgundy and pale blues being some of the most common choices to reflect a sense of discreet elegance.Luxurious,tactile materials like fur,velvet,and satin paired with classic prints like pinstripe and florals were amongst the other de

63、fining stylistic elements used to paint the picture of the Dapper Dandy figure for mens FW 22 fashion week.ERNEST W.BAKERDapper Dandy1.Arturo Obegero2.Ernest W Baker 3.Erdem4.Jil Sander1234WALES BONNERDAVI PARISVelvet is a sophisticated,tactile fabric that often appears during Fall Winter fashion we

64、eks;this season,deep blue green colorways were a common version of the fabric,being used primarily for corduroy pants and outerwear.The fabric is predicted to experience a slight 4 point increase on social media by Winter 22 compared to last year,along with a medium magnitude.Velvet is deemed a Safe

65、 Bet for a Winter 22 collection,and is most popular amongst the trendy and edgy consumer segments.Segmentation TRENDY&EDGY 2VelvetSafe Bet145678232.Neil Barrett3.Etudes4.Louis Vuitton5.EgonLab6.MSGM7.Kiko Kostadinov1.Arturo Obegero8.EtroNavy Blue has emerged as the neutral color of choice this seaso

66、n,being a hcic alternative to black that designers were drawn towards for FW 22.Due to its timeless appeal,it comes as no surprise that Navy Blue is predicted remain stable n social media by Winter 22 compared to this year.Additionally,the magnitude of the color is big meaning it has a high level of

67、 visibility already.Moreover,all three consumer segments wear the color equally,thanks to its appearance on denim which is ubiquitous on social media.Segmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY 2Navy BlueSafe Bet145678232.Paul Smith3.Kiko Kostadinov4.Officine Gnrale5.Etudes6.Prada7.Egonlab1.OAMC8.David Cata

68、lanPinstripes are a classic,subtle print traditionally used for tailoring.The delicate stripe was most often seen on suits,in line with its historical application,however brands like JW Anderson gave the print new life through edgy styling choices.Pinstripes are predicted to remain flat on social me

69、dia by Winter 22 compared to last year,paired with a medium level of visibility making them a Safe Bet for the Winter 22 season.Interestingly,Pinstripes are most worn by Edgy men despite their seemingly universal appeal.Segmentation EDGY 2PinstripesSafe Bet45678232.John Alexander Skelton3.JW Anderso

70、n4.Ernest W Baker5.David Catalan6.Dries Van Noten7.Kenzo1.Ardusse8.Rhude1Along with Navy Blue,Light Brown was another neutral color that was all over the runways for the FW 22 season.Light shades of brown have a soft and earth quality in line with the theme of feminine sophistication.The dynamics of

71、 Light Brown are predicted to remain flat on social media by Winter 22 compared to last year,paired with a medium magnitude making the color a Safe Bet for a Winter 22 collection.The color is most often worn by the edgy consumer segment,while mainstream and trendy men tend to opt for darker tones of

72、 the color.Segmentation EDGY 2Safe Bet45678232.Oflcine Gnrale3.Jil Sander4.Zegna5.Steven Passaro6.tudes7.Kiton1.Davi Paris8.TodsLight Brown1Belted outerwear is an ideal way to create an hourglass silhouette for the FW season,appearing in several collections throughout mens fashion week.The trend was

73、 the star silhouette of Pradas show,while other brands like Jil Sander and Zegna utilized unexpected materials like silk scarves or chains as belts to create the cinched look.The Belted Coat is expected to slightly decrease by 6 points on social media by Winter 22 compared to last year,with a medium

74、 magnitude making the trend a Safe Bet.Moreover,the Belted Coat is most often worn by Edgy men,as perhaps the silhouette is too feminine for the trendy and mainstream audience.Segmentation EDGY 2Safe Bet2.Zegna3.Hermes4.Etudes5.Sean Suen6.Ami7.Jil Sander1.Ernest W Baker8.Solid HommeBelted Coat145678

75、23Floral prints embody the theme of the Dapper Dandy,with vintage-appearing versions of the print being a popular sub-trend that appeared throughout mens fashion weeks.The delicate Floral print reflects the embrace of soft masculinity that has become a dominating force in pop culture.Our data indica

76、tes that Floral prints are predicted to exhibit a stable level of visibility on social media by Winter 22,along with a medium magnitude making the print a Safe Bet for a menswear collection.Moreover,trendy men are most often seen wearing Florals on social media.Segmentation TRENDY2FloralsSafe Bet2.W

77、ales Bonner3.Louis Vuitton4.Dior Homme5.Ardusse6.Erdem7.Valette1.Davi Paris8.Kenzo14567823CummerbundDandies rejoice!The rise of the Cummerbund is here and fits perfectly with the air of mystery and romance that imbued the FW 22 atmosphere.Being another element lent from classical suiting,this detail

78、 piece was used surprisingly often for casual looks as well as formal.Erdem showed off a perfect example of this through the styling of a Cummerbund in a green corduroy fabric,matching the pants,paired with a short-sleeved floral button down.Pushing the styling boundaries for the Cummerbund further;

79、Neil Barrett showed the item off under a cropped vest,while at Acne Studios,the model was bare under her blazer.Needless to say,we are expecting some revolutionary red carpet moments next season.From black tie to no-tieWales BonnerErnest W BakerERDEM1.Acne Studios2.Neil Barrett3.Kiton123Croco Access

80、oriesBringing you an exotic texture for the Fall Winter 22 season are the crocodile leather accessories.This exciting texture is making its way back to high fashion and while also present in ready-to-wear,it was mostly observed on bags and shoes this season.Ernest W baker gave us plenty of crocodile

81、 leather,observed both on their shoulder bags and extravagant loafers.At Dior,a playful contrast between crocodile bags and other leopard printed pieces took us on a trip to the animal kingdom,while Fendi brought us a houndstooth paradise to accompany their white leather croco bags.Finally,at Louis

82、Vuitton,in an homage to Virgil Abloh,an iconic sky print was applied to their boxy tote.Time to head to the drawing board and create more unique variations of this versatile material.Crocodile DandyWales BonnerErnest W BakerLOUIS VUITTON1.Dior2.Fendi3.Ernest W.Baker123Thin ScarvesThis season scarves

83、 are more delicate,elevated and thinner than ever!Really playing into a feminine aesthetic,designers have brought us these magnificent accessories to pair with their refined FW 22 collections.Brands like Our Legacy and Magliano showed us how a shite scarf can find a permanent place in mens wardrobes

84、,and even how to proudly wear feathers and fringes.At Davi Paris,a fine animal print seems to have been brought back from the early 2000s,matching the delicate light brown tones in the coat and pants.Meanwhile,Drive Van Noten takes the cake with his lookbook celebration of life,love,and refined dres

85、sing,where this beautiful purple scarf is embellished with shiny pearls and strass that accentuate the festive aspect of the whole look.So away with heavy knits and bland tones,lets welcome this reinvented accessory with open arms.Blowing in the windWales BonnerErnest W BakerDRIES VAN NOTEN1.Our Leg

86、acy2.Magliano3.Davi Paris123WALES BONNERStar TrendsThe top trends on the runway as seen in across all themesTurtleneckThe Turtleneck was omnipresent in these collections,so much so that it manifested itself throughout all three themes.At Tods and Dsquared2,we saw extremely thick versions of knit tur

87、tleneck sweaters,perfect for an arctic exploration mission.In the Bluemarble and Vetements collections,the Turtleneck was mostly used as a layering piece,to be paired with a hoodie or a crewneck sweater.Finally,brands like Erdem and Brioni also used Turtlenecks for layering purposes,but in contrast

88、to a more casual styling,they were worn under formal shirts and blazers and usually in matching tones with the other garments.The message is pretty clear;the Turtleneck is here to keep us stylish and warm for FW 22.A Versatile StapleWales BonnerErnest W Baker1.Erdem2.Zegna3.OAMC123UNIFORME+2%SAFE BE

89、TTurtleneck 1.Etro2.Zegna3.Etudes4.Prada1234New Age ExplorerDSQUARED2TODSTurtleneck 1.Dolce&Gabbana2.Alyx 3.Vetements4.Erdem1234BLUEMARBLETUDESYouthful IrreverenceTurtleneck 1.Ernest W Baker2.Brioni 3.Brunello Cucinelli4.Auralee1234Dapper DandyPRADAERDEMFurFur coats,bags,gloves,shoes,hats;you name i

90、t,we saw it!From short to long,curly to straight or even shaggy,Fur seemed to be one of the most in demand materials for next season.This is especially remarkable given recent pledges by certain luxury houses to stop using real fur,although we can only speculate on the nature of the materials used i

91、n these recent collections.While we have seen Fur used on all sorts of different garments and accessories over the past couple of months,the newest developments seem to be the embossing of the material,as can be seen at Fendi on both coats and bags.In addition,many printed Fur pieces were shown as w

92、ell,mostly with animal prints,but some showed a tie dye pattern,while others had whole graphics to present.Fur FantasyWales BonnerErnest W Baker1.Dolce&Gabbana2.Dries Van Noten3.Paul Smith123FENDI1%SAFE BETFur1.Rick Owens2.Vuarnet 3.Sacai4.Dsquared21234New Age ExplorerHERMSOAMC1.Dolce&Gabbana2.Louis

93、 Vuitton 3.Blue Marble4.Junya Watanabe 1234ETROLOEWEFurYouthful Irreverence1.DIor2.GMBH3.Jil Sander4.Ami1234PradaFENDIFurDapper DandyLayeringOnce again,the popularity of the Layering trend is proven through the FW 22 collections,for both ready-to-wear and accessories.This sort of styling was present

94、 among all brands and created a large variety within an umbrella trend.We observed Layering with shorts over pants,padded jackets over suits,blanket Layers,clashing and matching prints etc.Sacai and Dsquared2 gave us Layering for the more adventurous,with blankets,leggings and padded garments,while

95、Undercover and Opening Ceremony brought fun back into these cold months.Valette Studio and Brunello Cucinelli also taught us a thing or two about styling for a casually sophisticated look,Layering thin padded jackets under blazers and turtlenecks under a formal shirt.For bags,we saw a very sporty ap

96、proach at Rains Layering multiple small bags,while Fendi brought us a shoulder and tote bag combo for classy transportation.Nesting Doll LooksWales BonnerErnest W Baker1.Zegna2.Lemaire3.Ami123DSQUARED2Layering1.Lemaire2.Alyx3.Rains4.Dsquared21234New Age ExplorerZEGNASACAI1.Magliano2.Comme des Garons

97、3.Vetements4.Prada1234OPENING CEREMONYUNDERCOVERLayeringYouthful Irreverence1.Fendi2.Etro3.Brunello Cucinelli4.Undercover1234EGONLABVALETTE STUDIOLayeringDapper DandyLeatherAnother widely sought after material for next season is Leather.It was seen in all shapes and forms,and while this isnt surpris

98、ing for accessories,it surely played an unprecedented role in ready-to-wear.After the,now wardrobe staple,puffer jacket,leather jackets and coats made up the most important share of outerwear in these runway collections.The more surprising appearance the material made was on pants and shorts,and not

99、 only in a few collections,but it was a widespread surge!With Leather being widely adopted across all categories and full leather looks presenting themselves to us,there was an interesting variety in the malleability of the material;from a flexible leather for bottom pieces at Fendi,a more rigid ver

100、sion for tops and outerwear at Etro,to a stiff patent leather for sleeveless vests at Alyx.A Versatile StapleWales BonnerErnest W Baker1.Etro2.Vetements3.Fendi123PRADA+1%SAFE BETLeather1.Lemaire2.Hed Mayner 3.Brioni4.Acne Studios1234New Age ExplorerALYXHERMS1.Philipp Plein2.Winnie3.Loewe4.GmbH1234Yo

101、uthful IrreverenceVERSACERHUDELeather1.Fendi2.Dior3.Rhude4.Jil Sander1234ERNEST W BAKERJIL SANDERLeatherDapper Dandy1.For The New Age Explorer theme,brands combined vintage outdoor references with contemporary sportswear from a futuristic point-of-view,giving the gorpcore aesthetic a twist for FW 22

102、.2.An attitude of Youthful Irreverence was a key theme that emerged throughout the FW 22 mens collections,defined by bright colors,absurdist humour,and an anything goes approach to styling.3.An elegant aesthetic recalling the Dandy archetype was embodied by an abundance of fur,hourglass silhouettes,

103、and an infusion of feminine codes into the masculine vestiaire this season.4.Turtlenecks,Layering,Fur and Leather were such ubiquitous trends that they have to be the stars of this mens fashion week,with variations in design and styling that applied to our three themes.5.Blurred lines between the pr

104、e-conception of feminine and masculine trends were also present for the accessories with Mary Jane Shoes,Thin Scarves and Chokers appearing on the runways.KeyTakeawaysOAMCActually,we didnt tell you everythingFor the full report,please get in touch at:You can also subscribe to our newsletter to never miss our next reports or webinarsSubscribe to our newsletterDRIES VAN NOTEN


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